Digital Photo Blog

February 6, 2010

Charlie Cramer and Bill Atkinson at CVS

Filed under: openings — admin @ 9:23 pm

I’m the “buck stops here” guy for putting together the Creative Vision Series Talks for the ImageMakers and Center For Photographic Art. We just had a great talk by Charlie Cramer (www.charlescramer.com).

Got to meet Charlie Cramer face-to- face finally, and to rehash “The Anomaly Factory” (you know who you are!) with Bill Atkinson. He had some mockups of the iPad with him and he was busy showing off his iPhone software. (http://www.billatkinson.com/aboutPhotoCard.html.) In turn, I shared my iPad project with him. He’s just as brilliant and energetic and enthusiastic as he was 38 years ago…

Charlie is diminutive and delightful. He brought along many of his prints to see, and even compare (photo paper vs Cibachrome vs Dye-Transfer vs LightJet vs old Epson vs new Epson.) Seeing them all side by side was really a revelation as to how far photo printing technology has come.

Had nearly 80 people show up.

Tracy-CharlieCramer.jpg

Charlie at a signing after the talk.

during-the-break.jpg

During the break. (Most folks went outside to stretch.)

BillDoubtsMe.jpg

Bill looks like he doesn’t believe me!

Tracy-BillAtkinson.jpg

December 23, 2009

Suddenly, gray borders on photo prints; ABW profiles missing

Filed under: Printing — admin @ 3:21 pm

My photos suddenly started printing with great wide gray borders, for no reason I could imagine. I thought nothing had changed… but obviously something had.

I tried reinstalling Photoshop CS4; reinstalling the Mac 10.6.2 update; moving ICC profiles around… and generally messed with it until frustration took over.

I finally wrote to a group that provides Photoshop support, but they simply gave me basic lessons on where ICC profiles should reside, and then became fairly condescending when I suggest that I knew all that, and the sudden appearance of these gray borders pointed at something deeper.

Shortly, I discovered that it was only the custom profiles I’d made with my ColorMunki that were causing the problem. I wrote to X-Rite and they responded courteously, admitting that others had started experiencing it too, and offered several suggestions.

I reinstalled CS3, and the profiles worked. I remade the profiles in version 2 ICC format instead of version 4, and they worked in CS3 and CS4.

I am continuing to work with X-Rite so see if there is a better solution, and will keep this note updated.

I’ll cut to the chase here: what it turns out to be is the combination of 10.6.2, version 4 ICC profiles, and PhotoShop CS4. Change any of these (including substituting version 2 profiles, or printing from CS3) and the gray borders go away.

At this point, it appears that one can either remake (or replace) custom ICC profiles with version 2 profiles, or simply wait for Apple to fix it (10.6.3 anyone?) or Adobe to fix Photoshop.

I should note that just before I did my detective work, another blogger also reached the same conclusion, and you can read his report here:

http://exactexposure.blogspot.com/2009/12/adobe-photoshop-cs4-and-apple-os-1062.html

I’ll also note that there is one other effect of 10.6.2: the ABW (Advanced Black and White) profiles I created* for B&W output, using the data from the ColorMunki, and the QuadTone RIP generator, no longer show up at all in the CS4 profile list. These are listed as version “2.10″ instead of “2.0″ but I’m not sure whether that is the issue, or something else. Again, it may just be up to Apple to undo whatever they did in 10.6.2 with ICC profiles.

I’m still working on this one.

(later…) Aha! If you are creating these ABW profiles described above, use the script “QTR-Create-ICC-RGB” instead of “QTR-Create-ICC” and the profiles will be seen. Yes: this means you have to make them all over again… (or, as noted, wait and see if Apple fixes it in 10.6.3…)

Hope this helps someone else from pulling their hair out. :-)
*http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/bw_printing/bw_print_colormunki.html

LATER

How to print a target without Apple’s Colorsync mucking it up:

Please read the full page where I got this: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/solving.shtml

The heart of that page is printed below for your convenience. I take no credit for this solution.

Open (untagged) profile target image in CS4.
Edit -> Assign Profile… -> Adobe RGB. Click OK.
File -> Print…
Set Color Handling = Photoshop Manages Colors.
Set Printer Profile = Adobe RGB.
Set Rendering Intent = Relative Colorimetric.
Uncheck Black Point Compensation.

Click Print…

In the Epson driver, disable color management, and choose whatever driver settings you normally want to use for printing on your chosen paper (e.g., 16-bit, appropriate media type, thickness, High Speed = Off, etc.)
Print.

Please note that it does NOT matter that Adobe RGB is used as the profile in the workaround. You could use Pro Photo RGB instead, for example. It DOES matter that you choose the exact same profile in the “Assign Profile” dialog box and the “Print” dialog box. Make sure that you DO NOT choose “Working RGB-xxxx” as the printer profile.

October 21, 2009

Digital vs Film. Color vs B&W

Filed under: Opinions — admin @ 9:42 am

In my local photographic group we have an esteemed and highly skilled photographer of people. She’s also a teacher. I greatly respect her tenure as a photographer and her level of skill. Her work, specializing in people in their native environments, are beautiful black and whites, made on film, and processed completely by her in the darkroom. She’s been shooting for about 40 years I’d say, and studied with the best.

Well and good, but she’s also of the school that anyone who shoots and prints digitally is to be demeaned, and that B&W is really the only meaningful and true form of photography.

That is, of course, pure bunk. It is also the resistance to change, and it’s been there throughout all the technological changes in photography, as skill developed with the old, only reluctantly gives way to the new.

(I’d have loved to discuss this with her at the meeting, but our format doesn’t allow that.)

Taking the easy one first - criticizing an artist for his choice of tools is just silly. Is Leonardo’s “Pieta” any less a masterpiece because it was cut using a leather mallet instead of a wooden one? Is a painting made inferior because of the use of a camel’s hair brush instead of sable?

If we treat photography as art (and I do) then all that matters is the final result. What kind of camera was used isn’t important; what kind of paper it’s printed on isn’t important; whether the image was captured on a CCD or film isn’t important. Where the photographer lives; what she eats; how old she is; and the color of her shoes are as important to the final print as whether it was made wet or dry.

What matters is the result - nothing more.

Now, you can get different kinds of results depending on your tools, but that’s a trivial and obvious observation, and leads directly back to the result: if you happen to like the look of film (a bit of grain and softer detail) that’s just fine… but now you’re discussing your response to the art.

I spent 30 years shooting film and 20 years in a traditional darkroom. I switched to digital because, as a tool, it offers me far more creative control, and a superior tonal range in the resulting print.

That’s not surprising… the history of photography, as with most fields, is one of increasing capabilities. Wet negatives to dry; tintype to film; black and white to color; single to multi-element lenses; film to digital.

Criticizing an artists for his choice of tools is, simply, petty.

What’s interesting about this, however, is that on some level, my friend knows this, as, while she rails against all things digital, she also says (of a fellow presenting some of his photos, with long descriptions of his technique) “I don’t want to know all that. Let the photograph speak to me by itself.”

She is hardly the only one to cling to film, and I cannot blame her. She’s spent a lifetime mastering it, and starting anew is very intimidating. And there’s the “old guard” element to it as well.

Clinging to it is just fine by me. It’s an artistic choice, and frankly I’d hate to see the skills needed for film photography fade away. I too like the look… just not to the exclusion of all other forms.

Of course, artists have pooh-poohed one another since the invention of cave drawing, and thus I doubt I’ll have settled much here.

Now, as to “black and white is the only true form of photography.”

“Color photography is about the color” she quoted someone as saying. “If you want to draw a person in and reveal the subject and involve the viewer, then remove the distraction of color and let the essence show through.” (I’m paraphrasing, but that’s basically it.)

And to some extent she’s right. But as a sweeping, all-inclusive statement, she’s wrong, in my opinion.

Color vs B&W is a “non-trivial” discussion, but I’ll say that both are, in a sense, just like the tools I mentioned above: they are a technique used to enhance the final artwork.

Let’s get the obvious out of the way right up front: how powerful would the “Mona Lisa” be in gray-scale? The Sistine Chapel? Monet? Picasso? Miro?

Color is most definitely NOT “about the color.”

Color is how we humans see the world. Removing the color for B&W is an artifice. In fact, in the early history of photography, before the invention of color film, photographers routinely colored their photos, either with a full cast, like cyanotype, or by hand painting.

It harkens back to Greek (and earlier) sculpture. The originals were not bleached white marble, but brightly painted, often with very saturated colored paint. Through the years, the paint wore off, leaving the raw marble exposed.

I find a strong parallel between how we came to think of the white statues as “true art” and how we came to think of B&W as “true photography.” B&W merely came first.

Why is the subject complex? Because while we live in a world of color, we do not get most of our information about that world from the color part of it; we get it from it’s brightness - luminosity… the Black and White part.

Try this experiment: take a color image into Photoshop, and then convert it to LAB space. Turn off the luminosity channel, leaving only the color, and you’ll very likely not be able to even see the image. Flip that, turning on luminosity and off both color channels, and the image will be perfectly recognizable.

That simple experiment explains why B&W photography works at all, and goes a long way toward explaining my friend’s correct assertion that “if you want the essence of it, you’ll find it in B&W.”

But the fact is that B&W is a technique, an artifice, as I said before. That it succeeds is not in doubt. Some photographs cry out for a B&W interpretation precisely because color distracts from the point the photographer is trying to make.

Would Dorthea Lange’s “Migrant Mother” have failed as a color photo? I think not, but it’s certainly more bleak as a B&W, where the lack of color not only emphasizes the woman’s plight, but the very mood of her times. And it’s that last, the mood, that adds the extra kick to that photograph.

On the other hand, look at Steve McCurry’s “Afghan Girl.” That photo certainly carries the same visceral impact as “Migrant Mother” but is in full color. In B&W, the impact is lost.

Would Steichen’s “Flat Iron Building” have worked in color? I think it might have been better in color, since the dim lighting conditions would have severely muted the colors and thus drawn the view further in.

Some photos call out for color, and some for B&W - it depends on the piece and the artist’s intent. There is no one answer; one is not “better” than the other.

My own “Tree with Cloud” makes a great B&W, but was (as a digital image) taken in color. The sky was bright blue. Printed in color, it would indeed have been “color about color” … which is why I chose to print it without color.

When I create art using the photographer’s toolkit, everything I choose affects the final viewing impact. Besides the initial perspective, time, depth of field, shutter speed, focus and other choices made during the actual capture, there is : Matte paper or luster? Optical brighteners or none? Surface texture? Color or B&W? Saturation? Contrast? High key or low? Sharp or soft? What grain size, if any? Printed small, medium or huge? Matted to the edge or with a border?

All of these, and more, are dictated to my particular sensibilities as an artist by the image itself. Others would make different choices.

In fact, I tend to think that professing that “only B&W; only film” demeans our art form, and brings it perilously close to a craft instead. I can think of no good coming from reducing an artist’s choices.

My friend is passionate about her art-form and her choices, and that too is a good thing, for passion drives art. But that doesn’t mean I have to agree with her.

It is, after all, art.

September 23, 2009

Show opening Center for Photographic Art

Filed under: openings — admin @ 9:24 am

I’m delighted to note that two of my photos were included in this year’s juried exhibition at The Center for Photographic Art, in Carmel. The show is a delight, with a wide range of different photographic styles and visions represented.

My pieces “Tree with cloud” and “Nude with old roses” were selected. Each framed piece is $400.

The show runs until December 5, 2009.

Chatting with show juror Al Weber and fellow photographer Dick Garrod.

IMG_0217.jpg

Tracy with Al Weber

IMG_0224.jpg

Tracy with Dick Garrod

IMG_0218.jpg

December 27, 2008

ABW ICC profiles for Epson 3800 and Macintosh

Filed under: Printing — admin @ 2:20 pm

Free ABW (Advanced Black and White) Profiles for the Epson 3800 and Macintosh

NOTE: 12/25/09 - As of 10.6.2, these profiles will not show up in Photoshop. Apple made some kind of change that wreaked havoc on ICC profiles in OS 10.6.2. I’ll try to get these fixed, or perhaps 10.6.3 will fix them. (My fixes, when available, will not be as complete, since I don’t use some of those listed papers any more.) See my more recent blog post “Suddenly, gray borders on photo prints” for more details.

I’ve posted here my Epson Advanced Black and White (ABW) profiles for the Epson 3800 printer with K3 inks, and the Macintosh computer. (Note: profiles are posted as I create them.)

Included in the single zipped archive are ABW profiles for 17 papers:

Canson Arches Museum Velin Rag
Canson PhotoGloss Premium
Canson PhotoSatin Premium
Canson Rag Photographique
Epson Enhanced Matte
Epson Premium Luster
Epson SemiMatte
Epson Velvet Fine Art
Epson WaterColor
HawkMountain Sharpwing Luster
Hahnemuhle Bamboo
Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta
Legion Entrada Natural
Mitsubishi Gekko Blue
Mitsubishi Gekko Green
Museo Max
Red River Ultra Pro Gloss

Click here to get the profiles.

NEW PROFILES - to get around the 10.6.2 ICC profiles issues are below. They include:

Epson Enhanced Matte
Epson SemiMatte
Epson Velvet Fine Art
HawkMountain Sharpwing Luster
Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta
Legion Entrada Natural
Mitsubishi Gekko Blue
Mitsubishi Gekko Green
Museo Max
(write if you want one of the others)

Click here to get these revised profiles.

NOTICE! These profiles were made for MY setup, and are therefore provided AS IS. In exchange for getting them for free, you acknowledge that they may be completely unsuitable for you, and you are using them at your own risk.

The profiles were made using “No color management / printer manages color” setting with perceptual RI, and ABW set to “Normal” and all other settings to zero. Prints were allowed to try for 24 hours prior to measurement.

The paper manufacturer’s recommended paper setting was used in all cases.

The way the names will appear in the profile list in Photoshop is this:

Each will begin with ABW_ (making it easy to keep them all together.)

Next is the manufacturer’s code:
CA = Canson/Arches
HK = HawkMountain
HN = Hahnemuhle
MU = Museo
LP = Legion Paper (Moab)
MB = Mitsubishi (Gekko)
EP = Epson
RR = RedRiver

next is the paper

If a number follows, it is the weight of the paper

and finally the paper setting used
EM - enhanced matter;
VFA - velvet fine art;
WC - watercolor;
PL - Premium Luster;
PG - Premium Glossy;
PSG - Premium SemiGloss

To use these profiles, do this:

Place the profile in your ~/library/colorsync/profiles folder.

When printing, choose “Photoshop manages colors” and select the appropriate ABW profile. Set the rendering intent to perceptual.

In the print driver dialog, be sure you have selected the proper paper, and set it up for ABW printing, using the same settings as I did when creating the profile.

Remember that matte paper really needs 12-24 hours to dry, and will look darker when first removed from the printer. If after 24 hours, what you’re seeing is too dark or too light compared to your (properly calibrated) monitor, then repeat the print, choosing darker or lighter from the ABW popup, instead of “Normal.”

Thanks to Roy Harrington, maker of QuadTone RIP , for his permission to use his script to convert my raw numbers into actual ICC profiles and distribute them.

December 26, 2008

On my paper choices: matte for B&W

Filed under: Printing — admin @ 7:05 pm

I print using an Epson 3800 with K3 inks.

I’ve just spent a couple of months and many hundreds of dollars running my own tests on papers from a number of manufacturers, from Red River to Canson. I’ve run standard tests, and then from those chosen papers for my own hand-made ICC profiles.

Now, paper is a highly subjective choice. Not only does it depend on the artist’s eye, but within his range of photos, a type and warmth (or lack thereof) depending on the image and artist’s intent.

I generally think of mattes for B&W since I love the deep blacks and velvet tones that a matte paper affords. But then that does not apply to all B&W photos, as some demand brilliant white highlights. You may or may not want to peer into the shadows; you may or many not want a silver tone. And the save type of caveats apply to surface textures.

So my own predilections are - for B&W: mattes with a very flat surface, and for color, a RC paper… generally speaking. That’s my “bent” not hard and fast rules.

And that said, in terms of matte papers, I have got to say that for my tastes those from Canson/Arches were, across the whole line, quite fine. After testing hundreds of sheets of paper from all the more common names, I tested the Canson products last… because as others have noted, they are probably the most expensive papers, and testing is not cheap. That said, I guess it should have come as no surprise that the paper chosen by Picasso, Miro, Renoir and others turned up at the top of my tests.

Deep rich blacks and a wonderful ability to accept the full range of tones made them stand out. My carefully crafted nuances translated perfectly to the paper. The feel of the papers was of quality, and if they were a buck to two more per sheet than all of the others, it was money well spent.

Mechanically: no dust; no cruft. Perfectly flat out of the box. I had found my matte paper.

(Caution: you cannot roll these papers for mailing; they must be sent flat.)

Particularly, I liked the Arches Velin Museum Rag. If I had to choose just one Canson paper, this would be it. (For proofing this paper, try Red River Aurora Natural 64lb.) The Canson BFK Rives is also a delight. I’d honestly have to mention all their matte papers to be fair, since all of them were simply excellent (although some had more texture than I care for.) I have never “gushed” about an entire line of paper before, but this is the exception that proves the rule.

OK… let’s be fair: are their other good matte papers? Sure, and nice ones too.

For papers with OBs, the Epson WaterColor and Velvet Fine Art and Moab Entrada Rag Bright are good, as is the Red River Premium Matte 2.0 or Plus. Without OB’s it’s Canson first, followed by Museo Max; Entrada Natural and Hahnemuhle Photo rag or HawkMountain Condor Natural.

I’d like to suggest that you get a sampler of the Canson papers and have a go at it. I think you’ll be as pleased as I was.

Next up: the RC (resin coated) papers for B&W.

December 23, 2008

Framing the Fine Art Photographic Print

Filed under: Techniques — admin @ 12:44 pm

Framing a Fine Art Photographic Print

Framing a photograph can be done several ways. The most common is without a matte, and is usually a photo of friends or loved one. Fine photographs, on the other hand, are virtually always matted. Beside the fact that this separates the surface of the photo from the rear surface of the glass (thus protecting it from sticking and other damage) the matte sets off the photo, and provides isolation from the surroundings; a “viewing area” if you will.

Framing is itself an artistic endeavor and thus subject to individual tastes. Therefore, I’m describing my own sensibilities here, and not hard and fast rules.

Paintings are often enhanced by the choice of a fancy frame. We have all seen those cases where one wonders whether or not the frame itself was not the object, rather than the painting it housed.

Photographs, on the other hand are diminished by ornate frames. A photograph is a captured instant, a single moment extracted from the flowing river of time. The viewer moves into a photograph as though he were there at that moment, with one big difference. Since that moment is frozen, he do something he cannot in real life - observe and blend every instance and detail into the whole it truly is.

Further, a photograph is composed by the artist. It is a chosen point of view, a perspective. And just as one uses “point of view” and “perspective” in an intellectual or argumentative sense, it is used in the physical and spatial sense with a photograph. That is: the artist is positioning you in space and time, and presenting you with an intellectual statement.

With all of this going on - with the striking depth of involvement which one can experience with a fine art photograph, the context in which it is placed becomes paramount.

That context is the presentation: the frame.

I always choose a simple thin black frame. This serves the purpose to draw a pronounced but unobtrusive rectangle around the image, separating that area from its surrounding. This deliberate choice says “look here.” In keeping it plain, thin, black and simple, it serves this purpose only, and does not call attention to itself - only to the object it contains. In short, there is no need to look at the frame, as there is nothing of interest to see on it.

As for the matte - considerations include color and width, as well as matting style.

There are single and double layer matte and I prefer the former, for the same reasons I prefer a simple frame: to my senses, a double matte merely makes the viewer think “look at the fancy matting.”

The color of the matte should enhance the photograph, or at the very least not detract from, nor alter it. The tone and color of a fine art photograph has been painstakingly worked by the artist, and the color of the matte, if it is anything besides a neutral tone, will alter that for the viewer. This applies whether the photograph is color or black and white.

In some cases, a bright white matte is appropriate, while in others, an off-white or even creme-tone is a better choice. In short, you must match the matte to the print itself.

Now, I’m making an assumption here, as expressed in the title of this piece: that you’re truly working with a fine art print: one which has meaning for you. If you are instead working with a designer and color-coordinating a room, and the matte “simply has to be lime green” then I’d suggest you choose a photo based on its colors, not it’s “message.” The choice may still be a fine art print if you’re very fortunate, but will likely be a more conventional “pretty” photograph.

The width of the matte’s borders needs to match the size of the image within, and the size of the frame; it’s a bit of a balancing act. A larger frame (say 18 x 24 and above) with a matte width of 1″ on a side will look out of proportion to the print, and fails to provide enough isolation to separate the image from its surroundings.

Equally, a 4″ x 4″ photo in a 20″ x 20″ frame has 8″ margins around the image, reducing the photo to 1/25th of the area, and results in a pretentious and unbalanced presentation.

It is that sense of a comfortable separation, a “viewing table” if you will, which determines the appropriate matte border width.

Finally, there is another consideration: is it the image or the print that you are displaying? For example, the images of Ansel Adams made him famous, but owning one of his original prints is a prize as well. The print is valuable because of the image it holds, but an authentic Adams print also has an intrinsic value.

Because the fine art print is carefully cropped by the artist, any matte which covers it, even slightly, defeats the artist. A photograph is largely composition and balance, and the photographer has very carefully chosen what is included and excluded; chosen the ratio of length to side; and skillfully ranged the tones from center to edge.

Your choice is to have your matte come directly up to, and slightly over the edges of the image, or you can back off a bit, and show some of the paper on which the image rests.

framing.jpg

I find matting which covers the image even a tiny bit to be a choice which fails the intent of the artist. In short, I favor the style of matting which allows the full image to be displayed, with a bit of the paper showing, for the reasons stated above.

Yet as with all artistic “rules” this too can be broken. For example, some photographs are taken with the full intent to be matted, and allowances therefore made by the photographer. Portraits spring to mind as an example of this category.

So there we are: several things to consider when framing and matting a fine art print: frame, matte, color, size, and edges, with most of it dictated by the print itself. If this all seems a bit intimidating, you can simply take the print to a framing shop, and work with the framer there, who will no doubt be well aware of all this, and can guide you through the process.

Should you choose a framed print from my collection, you’ll likely find it conforms to my preferences as stated above.

Tracy Valleau
Monterey, California 2008

Digital? Shoot at 5.6

Filed under: Techniques — admin @ 12:42 pm

Here’s something most folks don’t know about digital cameras: in terms of a quality, well-resolved photograph, you should stay away from the smaller apertures. F22 is too small.

If you’re fortunate enough to have a full-frame sensor camera (such as the Nikon D3/D700 or Canon EOS 5D, for example) you can go to about F11. With better DX (half frame sensor size) cameras, such as the Nikon D300) you can go to between 5.6 and 8; and with little consumer cameras, you should stay at f4 or 5.6.

What’s up with that recommendation? Well, it get a bit technical (see “Airy disc” online for details) but it basically comes down to the smaller the aperture, the bigger the point of light on the surface of the sensor. And if the point of light covers several “pixels” (individual sensors) you’ve lost resolving power.

Even before that happens though, you’ll start overlapping the sensors, and will end up losing contrast, which appears to the eye as a loss of resolution.

Ever wonder why your digital photos look “flat?” That’s why.

Yes - it’s a trade off between resolution and depth of field, and it’s an agonizing one. If you -need- the depth of field, and have to go above f11, you’ll lose some resolution.

A solution might be to go with a lens with a wider angle. Equally, setting your zoom to the wider end of the scale will open up the aperture on many lenses.

If you’re a photographer, you owe it to yourself to run a few tests to confirm how this affects your particular setup.

Meanwhile, (and this is a generalization, varying by sensor size/density, but the gist is correct:) just remember that you’ll get sharper photos at around f5.6 than you will at f22 with your digital camera; that your sweet-spots are between f4 and f8.

August 18, 2008

George DeWolfe: sorta…

Filed under: Corrections — admin @ 9:42 am

Have “experienced” George DeWolfe’s “Digital Photography Fine Print Workshop” book.

Didn’t say read, because Mr. DeWolfe is a talented photographer but annoyingly and extremely full of himself.

It’s this latter part that made the book so hard to read. He spends a huge amount of time telling the reader how great he is, and how fortunate they are that he is sharing his wisdom.

Very tiresome.

And, of course, there are the parts where he’s wrong.

Such as in his basic workflow, where he places noise reduction as the last thing done to the photo, prior to sharpening and printing, because “Noise…is the exact opposite of sharpening.” Huh? “Blur” is the exact opposite of sharpening.

This is a computer, folks, not a sentient being. Computers run programs that are looking, in this case, for a very specific condition: CCD noise and color noise, so it can effectively remove them.

It is NOT looking for contrast enhanced, color corrected, noise. It will never find that… because that’s not what it’s looking for.

You want your noise removal done as _early_ in the workflow as possible, not as late as possible.

As to the book as a whole, I’d give these comments:

It’s a very basic beginner’s book. If you want Fine Art Print information, get “Fine Art Printing for Photographers” by Steinmueller and Gulbins.

DeWolfe’s artistic advice is much better than his technical advice. If you want a good book on photos in Photoshop, get Martin Evening’s “Adobe Photoshop CS3 for PHotographers.”

August 5, 2008

Epson 3800 prints too dark: FIXED!…

Filed under: Tales from the trenches — admin @ 10:07 pm

… at least for me. As soon as I went from PS CS2 to CS3, my prints came out 1.5 or 2 stops too dark. Drove me nutz.

Search on the web, and I see I’m hardly alone. Call Epson, and they admit it… but have been working on a fix for nearly a year now. Sigh.

Then tonight, I’m determined to find it, and I start mucking about. One of the things I did was turn on print preview, with my chosen paper profile. And on a whim, I clicked on “Preserve RGB numbers” and saw exactly what the printouts look like: way too dark. A clue!

Off to Adobe help, where I find that the definition of “Preserve RGB numbers” is ” Simulates how the colors will appear without being converted to the color space of the output device. ”

Hmmm… is it possible that the output is not be converted to the printer’s color space for some reason?

If so why, and what can be done about it to fix it?

Off to look at my profiles… to discover that I have two full sets of Epson 3800 profiles… one at /Library/ColorSync/Profiles and another at /Library/Printers/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/ICCProfiles/Pro38.profiles.

Hmmm… do I have a conflict here? Should not be, but on a whim, I delete the batch of profiles at /Library/ColorSync/Profiles, and head back over to PS to see how thing work now.

And the result is… “things work now!”

No more excessively dark prints.

Is this the reason that it was so hard to find? Double profiles? Some had them and some didn’t? (The ones at /Library/Printers/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/ICCProfiles/Pro38.profiles are, in fact, inside that package, so not very obvious.)

Did I find it, or were the gods just smiling on me? Taking pity?

See if that is your circumstance; see if that fixes it for you.

Good luck!

Older Posts »

Powered by WordPress